🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.